A Day Trip to Bern, the Capital of Switzerland

July 20, 2026 ~ If You Want My Opinion ~ Leave a comment

During our vacation to Paris and various locations in Switzerland in 2024, my wife and I spent the better part of a day in the lovely city of Bern. Although it is the capital of Switzerland, Bern is only the fifth largest city in the country, which means that it is not so bustling from a tourism standpoint. It is built on a peninsula formed by a sharp bend of the picturesque Aare River. The Old Town section traces its origins back to the 12^th century, and the architecture is reminiscent of the medieval period at this UNESCO World Heritage site. We took the morning train to Bern from Zurich where we were staying during our time in Switzerland and hit the highlights of the city’s historic district completely on foot.

Our first stop was the iconic Zytglogge Clock Tower, a 13^th century structure located at the end of the Marktgasse, which is a main thoroughfare in Old Town lined with charming sandstone arcades and traditional Swiss buildings. The Martgasse serves as an active hub for both locals and tourists, offering a variety of shops, cafes, and restaurants. This avenue is also a key part of Bern’s vibrant cultural scene, often hosting events and markets that reflect the city’s rich heritage. The Zytglogge tower contains an astronomical clock featuring moving puppets that perform a show just before the top of every hour.

Zytglogge Clock Tower in Bern, Switzerland

We followed another avenue called the Kramgasse then crossed the Aere River and climbed a fairly steep hill to visit the Rosengarten, which offers fantastic views of Old Town and the river. With approximately six acres of gardens, this lovely greenspace features over 200 varieties of roses along with other flowering plants, shrubs, and ornamental trees. There are water features, walking paths, large lawns, a playground, and a restaurant. We wandered all around the grounds, and I took way too many pics.

Walking back down the hill, we paused for a few moments to get a drink and to check out the Bear Pit, or the Bärengraben. Featured in the city’s coat of arms, the bear is a symbol of the city and the surrounding canton. The plural for bear in German is Bären. According to legend, Duke Berthold V of Zähringen named the city he founded in the late 12^th century because the bear was the first animal he hunted in the region, and Bern sounds like Bären. The city has kept bears in captivity along the river since at least the early 16^th century.

Bärengraben (Bear Pit) in Bern, Switzerland

On our way back through Old Town, we stopped for a quick self-guided tour at Einsteinhaus, the former apartment where Albert Einstein lived when he developed his theory of relativity in 1905. Then we walked a couple of blocks south to see Berner Münster or Bern Cathedral. This Swiss Reformed Gothic cathedral is the tallest one in the country and features a 100 meter spire. The cathedral is filled with gorgeous stained-glass windows and one of the most complete collections of Late Gothic sculpture in Europe.

We ended our visit to Bern wandering around Bundesplatz (Federal Square), the impressive heart of the city that is dominated by the Swiss Parliament Building or Bundeshaus. The plaza features 26 fountains that erupt in random patterns from the stone pavement. Bundesplatz serves as the political and financial center of Switzerland. In addition to the parliament building, the plaza is flanked by the Central Swiss Bank on the east and the Berner Kantonalbank on the west. Before heading back to our train, we strolled along the Bundesterrasse or the Parliament Terrace, a spectacular, cliff-edge balcony located directly behind the Bundeshaus and perched above the river. This vantage point offers panoramic views of the Marzili public baths, Gurten Mountain, and the Swiss Alps far in the distance.

Views from Bundeshaus terrace in Bern, Switzerland

Sometimes capital cities can be overwhelming: DC, London, Paris, Berlin, and Rome. It is refreshing to visit a nation’s capital that is compact, walkable, historic, and beautiful. Bern is such a city. Although it is easy to get around on foot, Bern boasts an excellent and punctual public tram and bus network. The city is a major transportation hub. It connects to Zurich in less than 90 minutes and to Interlaken in roughly one hour. We highly recommend at least a half day in the charming city of Bern for anyone visiting Switzerland.

Macon, Georgia: My Hometown

June 28, 2026June 28, 2026 ~ If You Want My Opinion ~ Leave a comment

Because of its central location in the state, the city of Macon is often called the Heart of Georgia. It is also known as the Cherry Blossom Capital of the World because there are more than 300,000 ornamental cherry trees growing there, which serve as the centerpiece for the annual Cherry Blossom Festival held in the city. Some consider it the birthplace of Southern Rock music because it was the home of the Allman Brothers Band and Capricorn Records, although I’m sure Jacksonville, Florida could make a strong counter argument as the hometown of Lynyrd Skynyrd.

Macon, Georgia (downtown, as I remember it)

I was born in Macon in 1960 and lived the first 21 years of my life there at home with my parents, both of whom had roots in Bibb County where Macon is the seat of government. I attended school and junior college while I lived there. My family and our close relatives were members of a Southern Baptist church in Macon, a strong denomination in central Georgia. My first jobs were at Winn Dixie and then Piggly Wiggly grocery stores on Napier Avenue in town.

Macon is where I learned how to play the guitar and began playing the piano. Near our house on the west side of town, I rode my bike everywhere, played with neighborhood kids, and spent too-short summers swimming and enjoying a whole host of other outdoor activities. I had cousins nearby, and we spent plenty of time at each other’s houses. I bought my first car in Macon, which gave me a real taste of independence and allowed me to take girls out and discover early romance.

Macon, Georgia - Cherry trees in bloom — Macon, Georgia – Cherry trees in bloom

Bibb County’s population was about 143,000 when I was growing up, so Macon was large enough to support robust retail centers, manufacturing, several hospitals, a shopping mall, a few museums, live performance theatres, and a multi-purpose arena. Mercer University and Wesleyan College were founded there in the early 19^th century. Macon College was a two-year institution when I attended in the late 1970s but later became a four-year school. Macon was enough of a city when I came along to serve as a hub for central Georgia, bringing in labor and money from several surrounding rural communities.

The county’s population hasn’t grown much, with only about 158,000 according to the latest census records. Throughout my lifetime Macon has remained in the shadows of its ever-expanding sister 85 miles to the north, the sprawling metropolis of Atlanta. During my lifetime, Macon probably peaked in the 1990s, long after I had moved away. On the rare occasions I visit Macon these days, it looks a bit worn around the edges. Between 2011 and 2014 Macon lost two of its museums: the Georgia Music Hall of Fame and the Georgia Children’s Museum. There have been some efforts to revitalize the downtown area in recent years, and the north and northwest parts of town are still where most of the wealth is concentrated. However, many of the old neighborhoods I remember show signs of age and not enough care and attention. Violent crime escalated in the mid-1990s and has spiked several times since then, causing Macon to rank in the top ten most violent cities in the state. So it goes.

Regardless of its current status, I have fond memories of my formative years and becoming a young adult Macon. There was always such a rich music tradition in the city. It served as a springboard for people like James Brown, Little Richard, and Otis Redding. In addition to producing the Allman Brothers Band, Capricorn Records helped launch groups like the Marshall Tucker Band and Wet Willie. By the time I came around, Grant’s Lounge, the Capitol Theatre, and the Douglass Theatre were already legendary music venues hosting national acts of rock, R&B, jazz, and blues music.

Looking back, it seems that the Macon of the 1960s up through the 1980s was a city that appreciated its past while also looking to the future for inspiration, innovation, and vitality. There were still a few streets downtown paved with brick, but I-75 ran through the middle of the city. There were historic house museums listed as national landmarks but also multi-story hotels and office buildings. The ancient Indian mounds at Ocmulgee National Monument were well maintained and fully accessible, but there were also numerous public parks scattered around the city providing recreation and relaxation. The Macon Peaches was a minor league baseball franchise that lasted from 1923 to 1982, serving as affiliates for the Cincinnati Reds, Chicago Cubs, and Philadelphia Phillies.

Macon, Georgia - The author all dressed up at home in November, 1967 — Macon, Georgia – The author all dressed up at home in November, 1967

During my time there, Macon was big enough to offer individuals and families a healthy slice of the American dream. At the same time, the city wasn’t so large that I ever felt lost in it or frustrated by crowds, traffic, or other pains of urban life. As my circle of friends grew from my neighborhood and church to my schools and work, I was comfortable forging my early path toward grownupness. If I could have changed anything about Macon, it would have been the weather. I have never lived in a place as hot or humid as middle Georgia in July and August. It’s like swimming through air. Otherwise, my hometown was a solid location to plant my feet and move forward.

(Visit the New Georgia Encyclopedia for more information and images of Macon, Georgia.)

“On This Trail:” An original song

April 21, 2026May 28, 2026 ~ If You Want My Opinion ~ Leave a comment

This is not the type of song I typically write, which is based on actual historical events. It is my tribute to the Cherokee Indians who endured the infamous Trail of Tears, the removal of indigenous people from the hills of North Georgia and Tennessee to the newly established Indian Territory (later to become the State of Oklahoma) between 1838 and 1839. Historians estimate that approximately 4,000 Cherokee people died on this trail, which represented about one-fourth of the total number who traveled west during the forced migration by the United States government.

I wanted this song to honor the Cherokee Nation, so I specifically incorporated phrases from first-hand accounts of survivors, including Wahnenauhi (English name – Lucy Lowery Hoyt Keys), Jane Bushyhead, and Rebecca Neugin. I also found inspiration from the poem, “The Trail of Tears,” by Cherokee poet Ruth Margaret Muskrat Bronson (1897-1982).

Full disclosure: I claim no Cherokee or any North American indigenous heritage. To my knowledge, I do not have Native American or American Indian blood running through my veins. This original song is not an attempt to “put myself in the shoes” of those who suffered. I am not the narrator in this song. The imagined speaker is an amalgamation of many different male voices who experienced the horror and loss inflicted by the Trail of Tears.

For more information about the Trail of Tears, please visit the Cherokee Nation’s website at https://www.cherokee.org/about-the-nation/remember-the-removal/our-journey/ .

Trail of Tears - Georgia Historical Marker — Trail of Tears – Georgia Historical Marker

“On This Trail”

Far away from the Blue Hole Spring where we face the setting sun
Long nights and endless days, mothers weeping for their young

Forsaken graves of the ones we loved on desecrated soil
The cruel hand of the oppressors held empty promises they sold

On this trail, blazed by death and fear
On this trail, filled with tears

Beyond Kituwah and the blue smoke hills, to where the mighty rivers flow
Across Missouri down to Arkansas, through wilderness unknown

My wife and all our children gone, the earth is where they sleep
I have no land and I’ve lost my home, the sorrow runs so deep

On this trail, blazed by death and fear
On this trail, filled with tears

Shattered dreams and broken hearts for the sake of gold and greed
Proud nation of our mother’s land just yearning to be free

On this trail, blazed by death and fear
On this trail, filled with tears

You can listen to the song on YouTube here: https://youtu.be/UuZsI4Luqtc?si=7cW4-J38SrYjd2BZ

I Still Love the Classic Christmas Specials

December 10, 2025 ~ If You Want My Opinion ~ Leave a comment

They started appearing on our television during the first hour of prime time, usually beginning in early December and lasting until a few days before Christmas. They were advertised heavily because they were only aired once a year. They were typically thirty minutes long, but a few stretched out for an hour. Some were fully animated in the Disneyesque style, but the oldest one was actually a puppet based production using a technic called stop motion animation. These timeless Christmas specials, broadcast every year during my formative years in the 1960s, were as important in heralding in the holiday season as the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade and the Norelco commercial featuring Santa completely airborne before sliding into a village on an electric shaver. Some of my earliest Christmas memories involve making sure my homework and chores were all finished by 8:00 p.m. so I could plop on the floor in front of a television the size of a modern compact car to watch these simple but wonderful programs, in living color, no less.

“Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer” was probably my favorite television Christmas special and happens to be the longest running of its kind in history, dating back to 1964. It was a groundbreaking production, introducing the stop motion animation mentioned earlier and the use of a recently invented LED light bulb capable of emitting visible red light, Rudolph’s incredible nose, of course. Sponsored by General Electric, the show was the brainchild of filmmaker Arthur Rankin, Jr., who went on to produce several other classic Christmas specials. With a cast of characters including Rudolph, Hermey, Yukon Cornelius, Bumble (the Abominable Snowman), and Santa Claus, the show came to life at the hands of Tadahito Mochinaga, a Japanese filmmaker inspired by Disney’s Mickey Mouse who invented the special type of animation used in the program. I can still remember feeling so sorry for the misfits of this story, from Rudolph and the dysfunctional unwanted toys to the poor elf whose dream was to become a dentist. Critics have argued that the story and the song written by Robert May and Johnny Marks on which the show is based are plagued by troubling ethical issues, but that was not my interpretation at all. I thought “Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer” was a delightful morality tale about diversity, inclusion, and empathy. God knows we could use a little more of all of that these days.

A close second Christmas special for me was the 1966 fully animated “How the Grinch Stole Christmas,” based on the children’s book with the same title by Dr. Seuss. Featuring the unmistakable voice of Boris Karloff as the Grinch, this is another one of those classics that is still running each season on network television. Like most of these television specials, this book and show were designed to teach children of all ages an important lesson: the joy of Christmas doesn’t come from material things but from community and love for one another. I certainly received that message as a child, but what I remember most about the show was the incredibly creative and hilarious song, “You’re a Mean One, Mr. Grinch,” with lyrics by Dr. Seuss, musical composition by Albert Hague, and performance by Thurl Ravenscroft, best known for the voice of Kellogg’s Frosted Flakes hero, Tony the Tiger – “They’re GREAT!” Every year in early December on Facebook, I post a few lines from this memorable song to help usher in the Christmas season for my Friends.

"How the Grinch Stole Christmas" (photo credit: Common Media) — “How the Grinch Stole Christmas” (photo credit: Common Media)

Third in line is another fully animated production by Arthur Rankin, Jr. “Frosty the Snowman” first aired in 1969 and has been a Christmas standard every year since. It features the recognizable narrative voice of Jimmy Durante and was his final film role. It also includes the unique voices of Billy De Wolfe as the selfish Professor Hinkle and comic actor Jackie Vernon as Frosty. One point of trivia about the animation is the fact that the narrator’s and Hinkle’s characters were drawn to look like their real-life counterpart actors. Once again, here is another Christmas special adapted from a song, which was written by Jack Rollins and Steve Nelson and first recorded by Gene Autry and the Cass County Boys in 1950 and later recorded by Jimmy Durante that same year. By the end of the show, we all know that greediness doesn’t pay and that there is a certain magic associated with Christmastime.

"Frosty the Snowman" (Photo credit: TV Guide) — “Frosty the Snowman” (Photo credit: TV Guide)

My final favorite is likely at the top of many viewers’ lists and is perhaps quoted more than all the others combined. The fully animated 1965 production of “A Charlie Brown Christmas” features all the most familiar characters from the imagination of Charles Schulz and his long-running Peanuts comic strip. In addition to its memorable lines and scenes, the special also includes a very fine soundtrack by American jazz pianist Vince Guaraldi. The show received both Emmy and Peabody awards and is firmly implanted in holiday memories of millions of Americans. After all, who hasn’t looked at a pathetic Christmas tree and dubbed it a “Charlie Brown tree?” Like the lesson the Grinch learned, the Peanuts kids teach us that the true meaning of Christmas is about love, respect, and friendship.

"A Charlie Brown Christmas" (Photo credit: Wikipedia) — “A Charlie Brown Christmas” (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Hanging Out in Hermann, Missouri

August 13, 2025 ~ If You Want My Opinion ~ Leave a comment

To celebrate my 65^th birthday this year, which included qualifying for Medicare (woo hoo!), my wife and I took a short trip to the charming town of Hermann, Missouri. We spent two nights and the better part of two days exploring this tourist “dorf” located on the south bank of the Missouri River, a place that is influenced by its German heritage in food, drink, architecture, place names, and to some extent, culture. Founded as a colony in 1836 by the German Settlement Society of Philadelphia, Hermann was named for a northern European Germanic warrior who led an army in 9 CE to oppose the intrusion of three Roman legions into their homeland at the Battle of the Teutoburg Forest. By 1849, the village had established a German newspaper and a German school. Hermann became a river shipping point where viticulture and wineries flourished, which is still an important part of the town’s economy today.

Based on a friend’s recommendation, we booked a room at Hermann Hill Vineyard Inn and Spa. This lovely boutique hotel has eight guest rooms overlooking a small vineyard with magnificent views of the valley below where the main part of the town is situated. From our corner room we could even see a small portion of the Missouri River in the distance. The service and amenities at Hermann Hill are amazing. We were treated with wine, bread, cheese, and grapes in our room upon arrival after a brief tour of the facility. The inn has a spa (we didn’t take advantage of that service), a small gift shop, a cozy sitting area, a dining room, a kitchen with free snacks and drinks for guests, and outside spaces with grills, tables, and chairs. There are frozen margarita machines in the kitchen!

We stayed in one of the nicest rooms the inn offers, on the top floor with a small balcony. Our room had a gas fireplace, small glass table with two swivel chairs, a desk and chair, a spacious closet, a comfy king-size bed with soft sheets (we bought a set down in the gift shop), and a spacious bathroom with a spa tub and a steamer shower. A staff member brings ice cream and cookies to all the rooms in the evening around 8:00 p.m.

We were required to order breakfast ahead of our arrival, which we only took advantage of the first morning we were there. A staff member brought coffee and tea to our room at 7:45 that morning, and then we were served a full breakfast at 9:00 in the downstairs dining room, which we had to ourselves on a Monday. Other guests were eating on the outside deck. Hermann Hill exceeded our expectations, and before checking out the next morning, we booked a room for October 2026, when we hope to see fall color and enjoy cooler temperatures.

For the 45 hours we spent in Hermann, we essentially scouted the town for a quick getaway but also to determine if we wanted to return sometime in the future. Our first stop was Sunday lunch and a wine tasting at Stone Hill Winery, located toward the south end of town. We were impressed enough with a couple of the wines to buy a bottle of each and a few other fun items in the winery gift shop. In the early afternoon, we strolled around the downtown area shops and restaurants and took a walk through a park on the banks of the river. The weather was incredibly pleasant that day for early August.

We checked into our room at Hermann Hill around 3:00. Once we discovered there was pizza, drinks, and snacks in the kitchen and that we were going to be served dessert later, we decided to just hang out on the property for the rest of the evening. The view from our room made us feel like we were gazing out at a European village, especially as the sun went down and the lights from the valley began to appear. It was enchanting. My wife and I are perhaps more content than some travelers to spend time relaxing in hotels wherever we go, especially if we have a room with a view. I can spend hours reading on a balcony or at a window.

After breakfast the next morning, we headed back downtown to check out some of the shops while getting some good walking exercise. Later we had lunch before visiting the Black Shire Distillery tasting room. Out on a shaded patio, we sampled several different varieties of gin, bourbon, and blended whiskey. Some of them were quite good. We bought a bottle of gin to take home. We drove around a bit and spent more time back at the hotel before returning later for an early dinner at a downtown deli. We needed to get back home by around noon the next day, so we rose early, checked out of our room, and made a quick stop at a coffee shop for caffeine and some of the best scones I have ever tasted. Then we took the bridge and crossed “the wide Missouri,” to make our way back home. We look forward to returning next year.

Fascism By Any Other Name

June 12, 2025 ~ If You Want My Opinion ~ Leave a comment

“It’s not going to be as bad as you think.” A close friend said this to me shortly after Donald J. Trump was elected for a second term as President of the United States in November 2024. I wanted to believe him. I wanted to believe that the storming of the U.S. Capitol by a mob of the President’s devoted supporters on January 6, 2021, was in the final analysis a step too far even for someone as desperate for a second consecutive term as Trump apparently was. After all, he finally told them to stand down and go home, right?

I should have known better. Even though he had previously stated that he would look at presidential pardons on a case-by-case basis, on his first day back in office in 2025 he granted a full and unconditional pardon to 1500 individuals convicted of offenses related to events at or near the Capitol on that dark day. He also commuted the sentences of 14 criminals, including prominent members of radical groups like the Oath Keepers and Proud Boys, who were convicted of seditious conspiracy. In spite of my friend’s reassurance, it was going to be worse than I thought.

Before going further, I must admit that I am disappointed in the leadership of the Democratic Party, who are as much responsible as anyone for the return of Trump to the White House. Joe Biden’s cognitive decline during his term must have been obvious to plenty of people: his cabinet, his advisors, VP Harris, his good friends in Congress, and the party executives and strategists. He probably couldn’t admit it to himself, and his family would have had a difficult time convincing him to surrender the remainder of his term to Kamala Harris or even to announce early in his presidency that he would not seek a second term.

Everyone waited to change course until after Biden’s dismal and embarrassing performance in the debates with Trump. There was no choice but to seek another Democratic candidate for the White House. It was much too late in the game, and it was abundantly clear that the party rapidly pushed through the nomination of Kamala Harris to oppose Donald Trump in the 2024 election. And while she only lost by less than 2% of the popular vote, Trump swept the Electoral College, an outdated and unrepresentative system for electing the highest office in the country. States are political entities, not people. Our presidents don’t answer to our governors. States shouldn’t select our President – individual voters should. Alas, this is a topic for another post sometime, maybe.

From day one in office for his second term, Trump’s top priority was to surround himself with people who would be loyal first and foremost to him personally. A major test of that loyalty was an admission or declaration that the 2020 election was stolen and that he should have returned then for a second term. Furthermore, his appointees were all expected to support his decisions without question, even if those decisions and subsequent actions might violate existing laws, longstanding precedents, or even the U.S. Constitution. He has even extended his demands for allegiance to Republican members of Congress, threatening to replace them in future elections with candidates more in line with his administration.

From the rhetoric he spouts on social media and to the Press, Trump has repeatedly communicated his belief that any restriction on his authority as the President is illegitimate. He does not accept the concepts of Balance of Power or Checks and Balances that are firmly embedded in our representative style of government. Apparently, he is convinced that his authority is superior to both the legislative and judicial branches of the federal government. Sadly, some members of Congress and perhaps even some of our judges agree with him, along with plenty of American citizens.

Many of the people who voted for Trump believe our Republic form of government has failed them, and as a result, they are willing to grant Trump carte blanche, even at the risk of ushering in authoritarianism. They see the federal government as inefficient, ineffective, and oppressive. Trump has promised he can fix it, but only if the American people let him have complete control of the country. They truly believe that he will “Make America Great Again,” in whatever ways they define “great.”

Right-wing media have convinced a lot of people that undocumented immigrants from south of the border are a threat to national security. With his reptilian intelligence, Trump played on those fears and has placed purging the country of these “outsiders” at the top of his agenda. Illegal immigration has gone from being a problem to be addressed by the whole nation to a perceived crisis that only Trump is willing to face by defending our borders and saving our country from invasion. Trump and his sympathetic media outlets have essentially demonized millions of people living and working in the United States, turning them into enemies of the state. This is a move that comes right out of the fascist playbook, one that the Nazis used to great advantage against the Jews in their takeover of Germany.

I have grown so weary of the pseudo patriotism I see swelling across the country, with its flag waving nationalists (mostly white) whose entire proclamation of American idealism is encapsulated in a tired, worn-out country song by Lee Greenwood that includes the line, “Where at least I know I’m free,” as if the United States is the only free nation on the planet. Precious few of the proud folks who sing along have ever or will ever “stand up” and truly defend the country and the principles upon which it was founded. They either forgot them, never knew them, or have abandoned them altogether for ones they find more suitable for their vision of the future. Oh, they certainly understand the phrase “America First,” because they know what Trump really means is “America Only.” It reeks of selfishness, greed, arrogance, vanity, and narcissism – the very characteristics embodied by their chosen leader.

Call it a return to the “good old days.” Call it a revival of “Christian values.” Call it standing up for “the people.” Call it anything you want, but it looks and sounds a whole lot like fascism to me. Evil rarely manifests itself as ugly or frightening. It comes cloaked in righteousness. It wears the most attractive clothes. It says what you want to hear. It promises security and makes you feel comfortable. It delineates between Us and Them. It tricks you into believing you have been mistreated. It understands how you feel. It seeps in almost imperceptibly, as if it doesn’t really exist at all. Even now, it is slouching towards America to be born.

Walking Through Luxembourg Garden in Paris

February 7, 2025 ~ If You Want My Opinion ~ Leave a comment

I have written about gardens several times in this blog. They are among my most favorite places in the world. I love them in all their many forms: small residential gardens, larger private ones, arboretums, botanical gardens, public gardens, and those you find at houses of worship, city parks, river walks, and even businesses. They brighten up any space with texture, structure, color, and incredible beauty. They are places of refuge and contemplation. There are so many features to enjoy, including ponds, streams, waterfalls, varying terrain, rocks, boulders, statuary, fountains, and other built structures. Whenever my wife and I travel, we almost always look for gardens to visit or revisit.

In September 2024, we took a two-week trip to Paris and various locations in Switzerland. On our last day in Paris, we spent the better part of the morning wandering around one of the most spectacular spots in the city, Luxembourg Garden. Located in the 6^th arrondissement in an artsy part of the city, the Jardin du Luxembourg comprises 25 hectares (56.8 acres) adjacent to the grand building that houses the French Senate, thus its more familiar name for Parisians, Jardin du Sénat. The Luxembourg Garden comprises formal English gardens, 3,000 trees of various species, 5,000 square meters of flower beds, an orchard containing more than 500 old varieties of pear and apple trees, a collection of exceptional orchids, and 102 statues and monuments, including the famous Médicis fountain.

French Senate building at Luxembourg Garden

The garden’s origins date back to the 17^th century when Marie de Médicis, the widow of Henry IV, built an Italian palace on property once owned by François, Duke of Piney-Luxembourg. The French Senate took over ownership of the garden in the early 1800s after the palace became the home of the governing body in 1799. It wasn’t until the last half of the 19^th century with the restoration projects in Paris under Napolean III that the garden began to take its more modern shape. Luxembourg Garden has appeared in numerous works of literature by authors such as Victor Hugo, Henry James, and William Faulkner.

As we entered the garden that Sunday morning at the Porte Gay-Lussac, we were greeted by the sounds of music coming from what appeared to be a small community orchestra at the nearby Kiosque à musique. We made our way counterclockwise to the Médicis fountain and then past the Senate building, protected by a high metal fence and guards with firearms. We continued around the perimeter of the garden, making side trips into the interior from time to time. Before leaving, we spent a few moments near the Grand Bassin, a large octagonal basin of water surrounded by raised balustraded terraces adorned with a series of statues of former French queens, saints, and other historical figures.

What impressed me most about this garden is how brilliantly the built environment blends with and enhances the horticultural surroundings. Walkways wind through trees, hedges, shrubs, lawns, and planted beds, encouraging us to meander and gaze. Statues, sculpture, and other features are spaced out and in the open or tucked neatly into nooks and crannies, inviting us to explore and pause to appreciate and learn. Luxembourg Garden is truly an oasis we can enjoy simply for its beauty and design. However, it’s also an outdoor classroom for aspiring students of all ages who wish to be schooled in botany, art, architecture, history, and so much more.

Bacchus (Dionysus) statue at Luxembourg Garden

Stumbling Upon a Treasure in Paris

October 6, 2024 ~ If You Want My Opinion ~ Leave a comment

I have known for years about the importance of Sylvia Beach’s little American bookstore in Paris called Shakespeare and Company. Her membership-supported enterprise was so much more than just a book shop. It served as a refuge and haven for some of the most gifted expatriates and writers of the early 20th century, including Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald, Ezra Pound, T. S. Eliot, and most especially James Joyce. Until I read her memoir (with the same title as her store) early in 2024, I had no idea that she was the first publisher of Joyce’s monumental novel, Ulysses. She really was a remarkable human being, one who made great sacrifices to support an amazing and historical intellectual community. She even risked her own life during the Nazi occupation of Paris by refusing to compromise her standards or cater to the monstrous regime that swept across Europe before and during World War II.

In addition to presenting valuable historical information about her store and its many patrons in her 1959 book, Beach shares some side-splitting anecdotes about her customers, friends, and acquaintances. Some of her own experiences at and away from the store are just hilarious. I laughed myself silly at her account of the performance of the Ballet Mecanique at the Theatre des Champs Elysees (1925), which included the use of plane propellers generating such a strong wind current that it “blew the wig off the head of a man . . . and whisked it all the way to the back of the house.”

James Joyce was clearly Beach’s most favored member, client, and dear friend. She turned out to be his most valued benefactor. As such, readers of her memoir learn more about the Irish novelist, poet, and literary critic than any other person she encountered. She offers insights into his personality, quirkiness, brilliance, innovation, and talent, as well as his tragic flaws and his greatest fears. He was deathly afraid of dogs, and Beach includes a story about an occasion when Joyce was the object of a rather large dog’s affection at a luncheon. Observing Joyce’s fearful reaction, the woman who owned the dog had it removed and told the guests that the canine had once chased a plumber out the window and that she had to buy the man a new pair of trousers. Joyce shuddered and whispered to Sylvia Beach, “She’s going to have to do the same thing for me.” Again, I laughed myself to tears.

The address of her bookstore was 12 Rue de l’Odeon in the 6th arrondissement on the Left Bank. She was forced to close the store in 1941 because of the Nazi occupation of France during WWII, but she continued to live in her upstairs apartment, surrounded by her treasured book collection. Sylvia Beach died in 1962. Over the decades since her death, the first-floor location of the bookstore has been the home of various retail establishments. There is currently a Shakespeare and Company bookstore in Paris inspired by Beach’s store, but it is not at the original address. Even when my wife and I were in Paris in 2016, I decided it would not be worth our time to locate the original address since it was no longer a bookstore.

Original location of Shakespeare & Company Bookstore in Paris — Original location of Shakespeare and Company Bookstore in Paris

Fast forward to September 2024 when we were back in Paris again. Something almost miraculous happened to us on our last full day in the city. We visited the Luxembourg Garden and then strolled over to a nearby restaurant for lunch called the Le Hibou. We weren’t even paying attention to where we were walking after lunch, but we passed by a small clothing shop, Moicani, with some beautiful scarfs and decided to go in for a look. Jean Helfer, the affable proprietor, asked where we were from, and I said, “The States, in Missouri.” He replied in an almost reverential tone, “Do you know where you are standing right now?”

He pointed to a photograph of Sylvia Beach with Ernest Hemingway, in the very place I was standing! Totally by accident, we had stumbled on to the location of the original Shakespeare and Company bookstore. He handed me a brochure he has created giving a brief history of the bookstore, along with other addresses on the street of famous historical figures such as Gustave Flaubert and Thomas Paine. He was so gracious and kind. I was almost speechless the whole time we were in his shop.

What an incredible way to end our wonderful vacation in France. And yes, my wife bought a beautiful scarf!

Jean Helfer - Moicani, Paris — Jean Helfer – Moicani, Paris

Rock & Roll Hall of Fame

August 24, 2024 ~ If You Want My Opinion ~ Leave a comment

My wife and I took a brief trip to Cleveland, Ohio in August, 2024. We had hoped to do so in 2020 while my wife was working temporarily in Fort Wayne, Indiana, when I could fly in, and we could then drive over to Cleveland. But the world shut down when COVID struck. We both love rock music, and as an amateur rock and pop musician, I was interested in visiting one of the top destinations the city has to offer: the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame. However, we both agreed that we would need more than a single objective to justify flying from our home in Springfield, Missouri, through O’Hare airport in Chicago, and then on to Cleveland. We found one. We discovered that one of our favorite bands, Hootie and the Blowfish, was touring in 2024 and that Cleveland was one of their stops. They were going to be playing at the magnificent Blossom Music Center in Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio, about 20 minutes south of Cleveland. We had a twofer and were good to go!

Neither one of us knew much about Cleveland and didn’t have high expectations beyond what we planned to do while in the city. We were pleasantly surprised. Situated on the southwestern shore of Lake Erie, Cleveland is taking advantage of tourism with great parks and beaches right on the water. The views are breathtaking. With a scenic skyline, good hotels and restaurants, stadiums, arenas, and several major attractions, Cleveland really is a place to explore. The city claims to be the birthplace of Rock & Roll music, primarily because radio station WJW disc jockey Alan Freed coined the phrase “Rock & Roll” to describe the upbeat black rhythm and blues music he was playing in 1951. Of course, the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame was ground zero for us, and it also exceeded our expectations.

The building is a modern structure with a huge glass atrium at the entrance. It has six levels beginning on the entrance floor, but the tour starts one level below with the Ahmet Ertegun Main Exhibit Hall, which carries visitors from rock’s earliest stars to those newly emerging contemporary musicians. There are thousands of items on display, along with feature films, videos, interactive kiosks, reading material, and plenty of music. This exhibit has the museums largest displays devoted to single artists, bands, subgenres, and movements of Rock & Roll history and the industry: Revolutionary Women in History, Hip Hop, Roots of Rock, Pioneers of Rock, Sun Records, Cities & Sounds, the music of Cleveland and the Midwest, and so much more.

Level 1 has a ticket booth, a café, large museum store, and the Klipsch Stage where performances are scheduled throughout the year. Level 2 is called “The Garage” where visitors can sign up to play various instruments with or without a house band in a setting that looks very much like a real garage. I played an electric guitar (something I never do) and sang “Midnight Rider” by the Allman Brothers Band with the help of a house drummer and a bass player, who also sang harmony with me. Although it wasn’t my best performance of that song, it was still fun to play in such an iconic venue. This level also has a large collection of different types of instruments and sound booths for visitors to jam on their own. The Les Paul exhibit is on this floor too, paying homage to the American jazz, country, and blues guitarist, songwriter, luthier, and inventor. He was one of the pioneers of the solid-body electric guitar, and his prototype served as inspiration for the Gibson Les Paul guitar.

Level 3 is focused almost completely on the Hall of Fame inductees, with the Inductee Signature Gallery, New Inductee exhibit, and the Connor Theater featuring the Power of Rock Experience. Visitors can look through alphabetic lists of inductees and a large chronological display of the all the inductees going back to the Hall of Fame’s inception in 1986. This floor also has the New Inductee and the In Memoriam exhibits. The Connor Theater is on this floor, where visitors can watch a 15-minutes video highlighting the Hall of Fame induction nights from the past.

Level 4 features the Pink Floyd tour replica of The Wall, designed to mirror the Berlin performance in July 21, 1990. This level is also the location of the Foster Theater, which is used for onsite education programs or private rentals. The theater has hosted hundreds of rock star talks and legendary rock films over the years. Level 5, along with some of the ramps in the museum, has individual display cases devoted to the legends of Rock & Roll, from the Bee Gees and the Doobie Brothers to Public Enemy to Tom Petty.

Level 6 is devoted to an exclusive exhibit that Bon Jovi unveiled with the museum in 2018. This full-floor showcase spans four decades of the band’s career along with never-before-seen artifacts from each of the band members. Visitors are immersed in the band’s story and music from inception to the present. Huge video presentations are joined by text panels and display cases filled with musical instruments, clothing, and loads of memorabilia from the band.

Organizations like the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame that establish themselves as authorities of a particular subject area all have one thing in common. They always stir up controversy, mostly about who or what is included, but more contentiously, excluded from their lists. This museum obviously recognizes this dilemma and even seeks to address it by allowing visitors to submit names of performers or bands they think should be inducted into the Hall of Fame. Many writers over the years have discussed this topic, and some of them have challenged the Hall of Fame on its choices of inductees through the decades. One of the most ironic exclusions is Huey Lewis and the News, the band that had a major hit with “The Heart of Rock & Roll,” which actually mentions Cleveland at the very end of the song!

I certainly had my share of questions come to mind as we strolled through each level of the museum. I was disappointed to see how much more space and almost reverential attention was given to Elvis Presley on one wall, while on the opposite wall a smaller display featured Chuck Berry, often considered the Father of Rock & Roll. I think those two positions should have been swapped. One of my favorite wall displays was for Jimi Hendrix, probably the greatest guitarist in rock history. I was baffled to learn that bands with place names such as Chicago were inducted fairly late in the game and that the bands Kansas and Boston still haven’t made it. At the same time, I was delighted to see so much attention given to Wanda Jackson, an Oklahoma native who got her start on ABC Television’s “Ozark Jubilee” broadcast out of Springfield, Missouri from 1955 to 1960. She later became known as the Queen of Rockabilly, a title she still holds to this day. As of this post date, she is still with us.

We were able to pack a lot in just two full days while still having some down time walking along the shore of Lake Erie, enjoying some great meals and drinks, and exploring the public spaces on the water around the Hall of Fame. On top of all that, we were lucky enough to catch Hootie and the Blowfish back together again for a national tour. Oh, and their opening acts were Edwin McClain and Collective Soul. For people who love rock music, it just doesn’t get much better than our quick trip to Cleveland.

Hootie and the Blowfish at Blossom Music Center (Ohio)

The Complex Character of Johnny Cash

April 28, 2024April 28, 2024 ~ If You Want My Opinion ~ Leave a comment

I have never been a big fan of Johnny Cash, which in some circles brands me as a heretic. I didn’t enjoy hearing him sing. No one ever credited him with being a skilled musician, and he likely would not have argued the point. I did not agree with so many musicians, critics, and fans who thought his song lyrics were profound. There were a few that rose to the occasion, but most of them were rather simple. Many of his fans and even a few biographers have painted him as a scholar — I have my doubts. I also thought the whole “man in black” persona was rather cheesy and contrived.

I do, however, recognize the impact he had on so many other musicians and entertainers. It is amazing how many people in the industry collaborated with him, especially later in his life. He helped launch the career of Kris Kristofferson, one of the best songwriters of popular music in the 20th century. I know Cash is a bit of a legend in the entertainment world, a reputation he spent a good deal of time cultivating. He was certainly a man of conviction, and on multiple levels.

Johnny Cash was also very close to evangelist Billy Graham, and the minister apparently admired the entertainer for his public testimony about his faith. Cash devoted much of his creative output to gospel music, often times at the risk of falling out of favor with record labels, producers, television executives, and some of his fans. He loved deeply, believed passionately, and endured incredible heartache and pain at times, including the physical kind. I don’t think he was as much of an outlaw as he portrayed himself to be or as the media depicted him. But he was definitely an outlier.

Most people who know anything about him understand that Johnny Cash had his share of flaws: addictions, infidelities, mental instability. He was also plagued with constant inner struggles. He was a troubled soul who clung to the faith of his Christian upbringing, even though it seemed impossible for him to follow a righteous path. The vices always seemed to get the best of him, even by his own admission. I suspect guilt played a huge role in his religious convictions, especially the death of his brother at a young age and the fact that his father blamed him for the unfortunate accident that took his brother’s life.

In the context of 20th century music, Johnny Cash is a name that is as immediately recognized as Elvis Presley, Bob Dylan, Bruce Springsteen, or Willie Nelson. He is indeed a legend, a celebrity who crossed multiple genres in the world of entertainment. I have recently started performing a Johnny Cash song in my solo shows. The one I selected is “Ring of Fire,” which has one of the most complicated and imbalanced rhythms of any song ever written in American popular music. I certainly don’t play it in the odd time signature that was produced in the studio. I doubt very seriously if I could even come close. Hmmm. Maybe old Johnny’s music wasn’t as simple as I once thought.