Hanging Out in Hermann, Missouri

To celebrate my 65th birthday this year, which included qualifying for Medicare (woo hoo!), my wife and I took a short trip to the charming town of Hermann, Missouri. We spent two nights and the better part of two days exploring this tourist “dorf” located on the south bank of the Missouri River, a place that is influenced by its German heritage in food, drink, architecture, place names, and to some extent, culture. Founded as a colony in 1836 by the German Settlement Society of Philadelphia, Hermann was named for a northern European Germanic warrior who led an army in 9 CE to oppose the intrusion of three Roman legions into their homeland at the Battle of the Teutoburg Forest. By 1849, the village had established a German newspaper and a German school. Hermann became a river shipping point where viticulture and wineries flourished, which is still an important part of the town’s economy today.

Hermann, Missouri
Hermann, Missouri

Based on a friend’s recommendation, we booked a room at Hermann Hill Vineyard Inn and Spa. This lovely boutique hotel has eight guest rooms overlooking a small vineyard with magnificent views of the valley below where the main part of the town is situated. From our corner room we could even see a small portion of the Missouri River in the distance. The service and amenities at Hermann Hill are amazing. We were treated with wine, bread, cheese, and grapes in our room upon arrival after a brief tour of the facility. The inn has a spa (we didn’t take advantage of that service), a small gift shop, a cozy sitting area, a dining room, a kitchen with free snacks and drinks for guests, and outside spaces with grills, tables, and chairs. There are frozen margarita machines in the kitchen!

Hermann Hill Vineyard Inn and Spa
Hermann Hill Vineyard Inn and Spa

We stayed in one of the nicest rooms the inn offers, on the top floor with a small balcony. Our room had a gas fireplace, small glass table with two swivel chairs, a desk and chair, a spacious closet, a comfy king-size bed with soft sheets (we bought a set down in the gift shop), and a spacious bathroom with a spa tub and a steamer shower. A staff member brings ice cream and cookies to all the rooms in the evening around 8:00 p.m.

We were required to order breakfast ahead of our arrival, which we only took advantage of the first morning we were there. A staff member brought coffee and tea to our room at 7:45 that morning, and then we were served a full breakfast at 9:00 in the downstairs dining room, which we had to ourselves on a Monday. Other guests were eating on the outside deck. Hermann Hill exceeded our expectations, and before checking out the next morning, we booked a room for October 2026, when we hope to see fall color and enjoy cooler temperatures.

Hermann, Missouri
Hermann, Missouri

For the 45 hours we spent in Hermann, we essentially scouted the town for a quick getaway but also to determine if we wanted to return sometime in the future. Our first stop was Sunday lunch and a wine tasting at Stone Hill Winery, located toward the south end of town. We were impressed enough with a couple of the wines to buy a bottle of each and a few other fun items in the winery gift shop. In the early afternoon, we strolled around the downtown area shops and restaurants and took a walk through a park on the banks of the river. The weather was incredibly pleasant that day for early August.

Missouri River at Hermann, Missouri
Missouri River at Hermann, Missouri

We checked into our room at Hermann Hill around 3:00. Once we discovered there was pizza, drinks, and snacks in the kitchen and that we were going to be served dessert later, we decided to just hang out on the property for the rest of the evening. The view from our room made us feel like we were gazing out at a European village, especially as the sun went down and the lights from the valley began to appear. It was enchanting. My wife and I are perhaps more content than some travelers to spend time relaxing in hotels wherever we go, especially if we have a room with a view. I can spend hours reading on a balcony or at a window.

Hermann, Missouri
Hermann, Missouri

After breakfast the next morning, we headed back downtown to check out some of the shops while getting some good walking exercise. Later we had lunch before visiting the Black Shire Distillery tasting room. Out on a shaded patio, we sampled several different varieties of gin, bourbon, and blended whiskey. Some of them were quite good. We bought a bottle of gin to take home. We drove around a bit and spent more time back at the hotel before returning later for an early dinner at a downtown deli. We needed to get back home by around noon the next day, so we rose early, checked out of our room, and made a quick stop at a coffee shop for caffeine and some of the best scones I have ever tasted. Then we took the bridge and crossed “the wide Missouri,” to make our way back home. We look forward to returning next year.

Hermann, Missouri
Hermann, Missouri

Where the Grapes are Grown

About six years ago, my wife and I were on a business trip in Savannah, Georgia, with her boss.  We decided to have dinner at one of the best restaurants in the historic section of the city, a place called the Olde Pink House on Abercorn Street.  We didn’t have reservations but were fortunate enough to get a table in the basement bar, where there was a fire blazing in a large fireplace, and the light in the room was soft and low.  It was a very relaxed setting, with an old world kind of atmosphere, which is exactly what one should expect in one of the South’s oldest cities.  Our waiter was quite knowledgeable about their wine selection, so we asked him to decant a nice, dry wine to go with dinner.  He brought the bottle to the table, poured half the contents through the filter into the large decanter, swirled the liquid to release the bouquet, and allowed us to smell the wine before he poured each of us a glass.  I have now forgotten the variety (probably a merlot), but I do remember that it was just about the best glass of wine I had ever tasted.  We asked him about the brand, and he told us it was a Hess.  We had never heard of it, but we were determined to find out more about the winery.

Hess Winery
Entrance to Hess Winery

The Hess Collection winery is in the Mount Veeder area of Napa Valley in California.  Grapes have been cultivated on the property at least as far back as the 1870s.  From 1900 to 1929, the property was owned by Colonel Theodore Gier, who built a three-story building that would eventually hold the Hess Collection’s historic barrel chai and art gallery.  After a few more owners and continued development and expansion through the 20th century, a man named Donald Hess purchased 900 acres on Mount Veeder to begin the Hess Collection.  Over 600 acres are set aside as undeveloped land to support wildlife corridors, fish-friendly farming practices, and biodiversity.  The Hess Collection opened to the public in June, 1989, following a two-year renovation of the facility which includes 13,000 square feet of Donald Hess’s personal contemporary art collection.

In 2011, my wife and I took a fabulous vacation to San Francisco, which included several side trips.  One of our excursions was a drive up to Napa to pay a visit to the Hess Collection winery.  It was magnificent.  In addition to tasting several varieties and buying a case to take home with us, we also visited the incredible art gallery and gardens.  According to the website, “Donald Hess began collecting art in 1966. Today, the Hess Collection houses less than a quarter of a collection that is shown in museums worldwide. His collecting style is a personal endeavor driven by passion rather than monetary investment or current trends. He develops a close dialogue with an artist to better understand what drives him or her to create and he carefully limits his focus as a collector to 20 living artists whose work he faithfully supports long term. As is evident by the caliber of the collection, he collects with the uncanny ability to acquire works by lesser known artists who often go on to become well known and respected in their disciplines. His typical commitment to an artist spans decades and various stages of his career.”

Hess Winery garden
Gardens at Hess Winery

My wife and I drink wine fairly often.  We are nowhere close to being authorities, and we are certainly not wine snobs.  Grocery store brands work fine for us most of the time.  Our favorable impression of the wine we had that evening at the Olde Pink House may have had more to do with the company and the dining experience than the sophistication of our palates, but we liked it enough to search out where the grapes are grown, which gave us an even deeper appreciation for the brand.  The story of Donald Hess and his enterprise, which he has now passed down to the next generations, is a fascinating one.   Seeing the actual vineyards where a great bottle of wine originates presented us with a wonderful moment of connection that I’m sure we will remember for a long time.